Sprechen sie Deutch? Well, little did we know but the
Germans sure speak the sartorial language of fine craftsmanship. Berlin, the
land of the culturally forgotten, has reemerged as a serious player amongst the
other European fashion capitals. Sponsored by Mercedes Benz, the Berlin tents
have been showcasing fashion worth noticing over this past week. It’s difficult
to tell what it is that sets German apparel apart from others, but there is undeniably
a unique vibe in the nation.
Sharp lines
and a minimalistic palate prevailed at North American-loved Hugo by Hugo Boss. Favourites were stark
white sheath dresses with colour-blocked panels, architecturally designed coats
to keep out the cool Eastern wind, and long, A-line black vests with bandeaus
concealing the bust.
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| Hugo by Hugo Boss |
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| Hugo by Hugo Boss |
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| Hugo by Hugo Boss |
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| Hugo by Hugo Boss |
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| Hugo by Hugo Boss |
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| Augustin Teboul |
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| Augustin Teboul |
A sharp contrast
to the simplistic charm found at Boss, Augustin
Teboul sent out a host of gothic vixens in black-on-black-on-black
ensembles. Webbed laces and black netting served as textiles and the menswear
inspired garments were seductive enough to make Liza Minnelli’s Cabaret
character blush. Large brimmed hats sat atop long horsehair wigs, eyebrows were
bleached, features were sharply defined, and long fringe fell across layered
looks.
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| Augustin Teboul |
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| Liza Minnelli in Cabaret |
The Lena Hoschek show first evoked
admiration, then dislike, and ultimately confusion in me. The show began with a
slew of models with elegant braided updos and cat-eye liner wearing feminine gowns in beautiful laces and brocades. The dainty heels paired with these dresses were
eventually replaced with chucky combat boots and ripped stockings. This quirky
juxtaposition was appreciated, but as the show progressed models began to
appear donning Southwestern inspired embroidery and detailing, and at this
point Hoschek had lost me, and the collection seemed incohesive as well as
disorienting. Nevertheless, the evening gowns were made with impeccable precision, and the draping of the soft fabrics evoked the mood of a romantic fairytale.
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| Lena Hoschek |
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| Lena Hoschek |
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| Lena Hoschek |
Dietrich Emter enchanted me with sharp
tailoring and soft feminine hues. Ladylike skirt-suits and fur-collared-coats
in dust pinks, blacks, and beiges were flattering and current. While
maintaining classic silhouettes, Emter produced garments that are sure to be
retail favourites.
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| Dietrich Emter |
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| Dietrich Emter |
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| Dietrich Emter |
Dorothea Schumacher of Schumacher Designs was truly the Berlin belle-of-the-ball. Beautiful monochromatic work-appropriate apparel graced the runways in whites, mustards, wines, and blacks. Blazers were sharply cut and cropped trousers were flattering with delicate heels. The peplum resurfaced once again, and capes and coats were rampant. Schumaher’s aesthetic had a certain Russian appeal, and models donned fur hats that would make Anna Karenina envious.
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| Schumacher |
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| Schumacher |
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| Schumacher |
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| Schumacher |
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| Schumacher |
-Sienna Vittoria
@SiennaVittoria
siennavittoria.tumblr.com
