Friday 18 January 2013

Berlin Fashion Week, F/W'13 RTW



Sprechen sie Deutch? Well, little did we know but the Germans sure speak the sartorial language of fine craftsmanship. Berlin, the land of the culturally forgotten, has reemerged as a serious player amongst the other European fashion capitals. Sponsored by Mercedes Benz, the Berlin tents have been showcasing fashion worth noticing over this past week. It’s difficult to tell what it is that sets German apparel apart from others, but there is undeniably a unique vibe in the nation.

            Sharp lines and a minimalistic palate prevailed at North American-loved Hugo by Hugo Boss. Favourites were stark white sheath dresses with colour-blocked panels, architecturally designed coats to keep out the cool Eastern wind, and long, A-line black vests with bandeaus concealing the bust.
Hugo by Hugo Boss
Hugo by Hugo Boss
Hugo by Hugo Boss
Hugo by Hugo Boss
Hugo by Hugo Boss


Augustin Teboul
Augustin Teboul
            A sharp contrast to the simplistic charm found at Boss, Augustin Teboul sent out a host of gothic vixens in black-on-black-on-black ensembles. Webbed laces and black netting served as textiles and the menswear inspired garments were seductive enough to make Liza Minnelli’s Cabaret character blush. Large brimmed hats sat atop long horsehair wigs, eyebrows were bleached, features were sharply defined, and long fringe fell across layered looks.
Augustin Teboul

Liza Minnelli in Cabaret

The Lena Hoschek show first evoked admiration, then dislike, and ultimately confusion in me. The show began with a slew of models with elegant braided updos and cat-eye liner wearing feminine gowns in beautiful laces and brocades. The dainty heels paired with these dresses were eventually replaced with chucky combat boots and ripped stockings. This quirky juxtaposition was appreciated, but as the show progressed models began to appear donning Southwestern inspired embroidery and detailing, and at this point Hoschek had lost me, and the collection seemed incohesive as well as disorienting. Nevertheless, the evening gowns were made with impeccable precision, and the draping of the soft fabrics evoked the mood of a romantic fairytale.
Lena Hoschek

Lena Hoschek

Lena Hoschek


            Dietrich Emter enchanted me with sharp tailoring and soft feminine hues. Ladylike skirt-suits and fur-collared-coats in dust pinks, blacks, and beiges were flattering and current. While maintaining classic silhouettes, Emter produced garments that are sure to be retail favourites.
Dietrich Emter

Dietrich Emter

Dietrich Emter

            Dorothea Schumacher of Schumacher Designs was truly the Berlin belle-of-the-ball. Beautiful monochromatic work-appropriate apparel graced the runways in whites, mustards, wines, and blacks. Blazers were sharply cut and cropped trousers were flattering with delicate heels. The peplum resurfaced once again, and capes and coats were rampant. Schumaher’s aesthetic had a certain Russian appeal, and models donned fur hats that would make Anna Karenina envious.

Schumacher




Schumacher

Schumacher


Schumacher

Schumacher

-Sienna Vittoria
@SiennaVittoria
siennavittoria.tumblr.com

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